There are places that dazzle on arrival, and places that grow on you. Japan does both. It’s a country built on contrast—silent shrines and neon streets, centuries-old rituals and vending machines that serve hot coffee at midnight. Everything works. Everything runs on time. And nothing feels accidental.

This was a solo trip. Just me, a backpack, a Suica card, and far too many convenience store snacks. I split it into four parts—Tokyo, Fuji, Kyoto, and Osaka—each city with its own pace, personality, and perspective. Some days were food-heavy. Some were coffee-fuelled. Some were made for walking aimlessly. And somehow, Japan was perfect for all of them.

What follows isn’t a guidebook—it’s a personal curation.

Disclaimer: This is a long one—about 5,000 words—and deeply detailed. Feel free to skim through, hop between cities, or read it in parts. I have bookmarked the 4 sections I have divided this blog into. I’ve also scattered several tips throughout the post to make your Japan trip smoother—so read between the lines.

1. Tokyo
2. Mt. Fuji
3. Back to Tokyo
4. Kyoto
5. Osaka

Tokyo

Tokyo doesn’t unfold all at once—it reveals itself in layers. There’s speed, sure. But underneath the tempo, there’s structure, subtlety, and a kind of order that never announces itself. It’s the sort of city that’s easy to get lost in, and somehow even easier to navigate. It makes no promises and yet overdelivers.

I landed at Narita Airport at 7 AM, ignored the flat-rate ¥22,000 ($140 USD) taxi, and hopped on the Skyliner to Ueno—fast, efficient, and everything you’d expect Japan’s transport to be. I picked up a Suica card, caught a metro to Shimbashi, and walked a few minutes to my hotel in Ginza.

Tip: Google Maps is freakishly accurate in Japan. Trains, platforms, exits, walking paths—you don’t need anything else.

Tip: Get a Suica or Pasmo card at the airport. It’ll work on metros, buses, and even vending machines. You’ll spend about ¥1,500–2,000 a day on transport.

I was staying at Yotel Ginza, a sleek, minimal hotel with compact rooms, automated check-in, and everything I needed—nothing I didn’t. Ginza, by the way, is Tokyo’s upscale core. Think polished streets, flagship stores, and buildings that look like Apple designed them.

Around 10 AM, I met a local friend, and we walked to Oniyami, a no-frills udon joint tucked away in a side alley. I had cold udon topped with fried tofu, served with the kind of clean broth that doesn’t need explanation—it just works. Simple. Balanced. Excellent. The kind of place you’d never find unless someone took you.

Tip: Use Tabelog for food. It’s what locals use, and anything above 3.0 is genuinely good. Don’t bother with Google or TripAdvisor.

From there, we took the Ginza Line to Shibuya—a quick 22-minute ride into Tokyo’s loudest, busiest self.

Shibuya is like flipping the contrast switch. It’s all oversized screens, Gen Z fashion stores, thumping music, and people moving in perfect chaos. I stood in front of the famous Shibuya Crossing, waited for the signal, and stepped into the blur, along with what felt like half the city. I had tickets for Shibuya Sky at 11:20, but I skipped it to stay in the moment. No regrets.

Tip: For a great view of the crossing, head to the MAGNET building and take the elevator to the 10th floor. ¥1,600 gets you access and a drink, without the madness of Shibuya Sky.

We explored the lanes around Shibuya, and that’s where I stumbled into Torahebi Coffee. I ordered an iced pour-over brewed with sake barrel-aged beans—a little wild, a little fruity, and totally worth trying once. Light, clean, with a soft fermented edge that made it feel more like an experience than a drink.

After that, we split up, and I walked my way through Omotesando and Harajuku, which are fantastic for boutique shopping. Japan’s retail scene is in a league of its own—the attention to detail, the quality of stitching, the presentation—flawless. Even the paper bags feel high-end.

Eventually, I made it to Koffee Mameya, a hidden coffee shrine tucked into a quiet alley, recommended by my houseparent in Singapore. It’s not a café—it’s a concept. No seating, no signs, just a wooden cube with a team of baristas who take their coffee very seriously. Before you order, they ask what kind of coffee you like, talk you through different beans, and then help you pick the right brew. While I was waiting in line, I struck up a conversation with a group ahead of me. Twenty minutes of chatting later, they ended up buying me both cups of coffee. No reason, no expectation. Just kindness.

The coffee? Immaculate. Precise, bright, perfectly extracted. It spoiled every cup I’d have after it.

By now it was around 3:30 PM, and I was starving. I headed to Brown Rice, a vegan café hidden behind a small garden near Omotesando. I ordered a set meal with seasonal vegetables and Japanese curry, which was elegant and quietly comforting. The space was tranquil, the food minimal but deeply satisfying.

Tip: If you’re vegetarian, always ask if the dashi is fish-free. Bonito flakes are the default, and most places won’t consider it “non-vegetarian” unless you ask.

After a quick stop at the hotel to freshen up, I headed back out by 5 PM to explore Ginza at night. And it’s a spectacle. Stores aren’t just stores—they’re statements. Ten floors high, lit like galleries. I visited the 12-storey Uniqlo, the iconic Itoya stationery store with its seven floors of paper and pens, and browsed a local souvenir shop called Loft where everything felt like a perfect gift. I also picked up a bottle of Japanese whiskey from a premium whiskey only store for my dad.

Tip: Convenience stores in Japan are next level. 7-Eleven, Family Mart, Lawson—they have everything. Power banks, matcha custards, hot coffee, toothpaste, stationery, even SIM cards. They’re open early, late, and sometimes all night.

Dinner was at Noeud, a Michelin-starred Japanese-French fusion restaurant in a quiet corner of the city. It was a nine-course tasting menu, and the meal was refined, creative, and deeply seasonal. The standout was a dish of tomato and green onion with sorbet and tomato gel—an explosion of flavor, perfectly plated. A zucchini risotto with coconut foam followed, then a fried fennel dish with fennel hummus that didn’t quite land—too bitter for the rest of the set. But the next course, a daikon and shiitake rose in a mushroom broth, brought it back. Then came a textural play on asparagus, and finally the main: carrot prepared five ways, finished with a glossy onion jus, which was by far the showstopper both in flavour and presentation. Dessert was a Kawachi Bankan citrus dish—light, sharp, and forgettable. The non-alcoholic pairing was thoughtful, and while the service could’ve been a notch more polished for a Michelin star, the meal—at ¥14,000—felt worth it.

Mt. Fuji

Few sights are as iconic—or as elusive—as Mt. Fuji. Japan’s tallest peak and most sacred mountain has been immortalized in woodblock prints, poetry, and postcards for centuries. On a clear day, it rises like a perfect triangle, snow-tipped and majestic. But getting a good view? That’s the real game.

There are two ways to do a Fuji day trip from Tokyo, which came across in my research—Hakone and Kawaguchiko. Hakone offers more of a scenic loop with cable cars, pirate ships, and sulfur springs, and you can reach it via the Odakyu Romancecar or a combination of trains and ropeways. Kawaguchiko, on the other hand, brings you face-to-face with the mountain from the north side, with better photo ops, fewer transfers, and a more direct view. There’s also Fuji-Q Highland, a thrill-seeker’s paradise of roller coasters at the foot of Fuji, if that’s your thing. I chose Kawaguchiko.

An early morning highway bus from Shinjuku took me to Kawaguchiko Station (Bus Stop No. 2) in under two hours. Smooth ride and decent legroom. From there, I boarded a local train to Shimoyoshida Station, followed by a 20-minute uphill walk to the Chureito Pagoda. The climb, though short, will test your calves. But once you reach the top? Fuji, in full frame.

The classic shot: red pagoda in the foreground, cherry blossoms (if you time it right, which I missed because of the season), and Mt. Fuji in the background. The view was not very clear, but still I got some amazing shots. 

Tip: Always check the Fuji visibility forecast the night before. Websites give hour-by-hour clarity. Kawaguchiko is on the north face of the mountain, so forecast visibility here can differ from Hakone or Tokyo. “You don’t choose when to see Mt. Fuji. Mt. Fuji chooses when to show itself.” That old saying? Couldn’t be more accurate.

From there, I took a quick bus to Yurari Onsen, one of the more relaxed, foreigner-friendly bathhouses in the area. Nestled near the base of Fuji, it offers 18 types of baths—cave baths, carbonated tubs, aromatherapy steam rooms—but the real magic lies in the rotenburo, the outdoor bath. Soaking in steaming 40°C mineral water, completely still, while staring out at a view of Mt. Fuji—it’s something I’ll never forget. By this time, the skies had cleared completely and I could see Mt Fuji in all its majesty as crystal clear as the water I was bathing in. 

But with great relaxation comes great responsibility. Onsen etiquette is strict:

• No tattoos allowed (many onsens will deny entry if they spot even a small one).
  
• Separate baths for men and women.
  
• Absolutely no clothing inside the bathing area—not even underwear.
  
• You get two towels: a large one for drying off, and a small modesty towel you take with you.
  
• The small towel should never touch the water. Keep it folded on your head or placed on the side.
  
• You must shower thoroughly with soap and shampoo before entering. Think of it as pre-cleaning.
  
• No cameras. At all. Respect everyone’s privacy.
  

I spent about an hour floating between tubs before heading back to Kawaguchiko and catching a late-afternoon bus to Tokyo.

Back to Tokyo

That evening, I dropped by Age 3 in Daikanyama, famous for its unhinged, totally-worth-it fried bread sandwiches. I had two: Crème Brûlée and Egg Salad. Both were messy. Both were perfect. You will need napkins. Many, many napkins.

Dinner started off with intention—I was craving grilled yakitori, something smoky and salty and best eaten with a cold Asahi, which is Jap. But after ten days on the road, a wave of homesickness hit hard. So I ditched the plan and walked into a North Indian restaurant in Ginza called Annam. and ordered dal makhani and paneer butter masala. Was it the best I’ve had? No. Did it hit the spot? Completely.

(But if you do stick to the original plan, grab a cold Asahi with your yakitori. It’s Japan’s most popular beer for a reason—clean, crisp, dry, and dangerously easy to drink.)

Later that night, I made my way to Tokyo Tower. At 150 meters up, it gives you a sweeping panorama of the city—glittering highways, orderly blocks, endless red lights—but it wasn’t the most breathtaking view of the trip. Still, it’s iconic. Worth ticking off.

Tip: Book activities like Shibuya Sky, Tokyo Tower, and TeamLab Planets/Borderless in advance—use Klook or the official websites. Walk-ins are risky, especially in good weather.

Final morning in the city. I head for some coffee first at glitch but when i arrived, the lines were 2 hours long. I said goodbye immediately and head to X coffee ginza, which was incredible nonetheless. From there I headed off to Asakusa, one of Tokyo’s oldest districts. Here, time slows down. Lantern-lit lanes, incense smoke, rickshaw drivers in traditional garb—it’s all very atmospheric. At the heart of it is Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo’s most visited shrine, with its towering red Kaminarimon Gate and bustling Nakamise shopping street.

I browsed for souvenirs, picked up roasted nuts, had a matcha dessert, and stopped at Kinefuku for their signature sponge cake with custard—light, fluffy, addictive. Before entering the main hall, I tried the omikuji fortune ritual. You shake a tin box, pull out a numbered stick, match it to a drawer, and receive a fortune. Mine said “small blessing,” which in Japan is like saying “meh, could be worse.” If you get a bad one, tie it to the rack outside to leave the bad luck behind. After visiting Senso-ji I went to try the viral matcha mont-blanc. The dish was more instagrammy than tasty (it tasted of sweet potato), but nonetheless, to see the making of the dish and see the matcha noodle like things coming out was very entertaining.

Tip: There are barely any public trash bins in Tokyo. Blame it on smell and hygiene. Carry your trash until you find one inside a convenience store, or just pack a spare ziplock in your bag.

After that, it was time to pack up. But before I left, I made a list of things I didn’t get to do—and now must return for:

• Shinjuku – For the full sensory overload. Neon signs, tiny izakayas, and the wildest side of Tokyo nightlife.
  
• Akihabara – The electric town. Gamers, anime nerds, tech junkies—this is their Mecca.
  
• TeamLab Planets / Borderless – Immersive digital art experiences that mess with your sense of space and self.
  
• Meiji-Jingu Shrine – Hidden inside Yoyogi Park, it’s peaceful, green, and deeply spiritual.
  
• Imperial Palace Gardens – Lush, structured, and perfect for a slow morning walk.
  
• Kappabashi Street – The chef’s paradise. Think every kitchen tool imaginable. Also home to Japan’s famous food replicas.
  
• DisneySea / Disneyland – Japan’s take on the magic kingdom, and arguably the best Disney parks in the world.
  

I needed one more day. Maybe two. Tokyo is the kind of city that unfolds with time—you don’t just visit it, you chip away at it.

At 2 PM, I boarded the Shinkansen to Kyoto from Tokyo Station. There’s a beautiful tradition here: pick up an ekiben, a bento box made just for train journeys. I couldn’t find a decent vegetarian one in time, so I skipped it. But if you’re veg, places like Ekibenya Matsuri have options—just ask.

The train? Effortless. It cruises at about 285 km/h, but it’s so smooth, you won’t feel a thing. The seats are wide, the tray tables roomy, and the carriage whisper-quiet. Japan’s bullet trains are a masterclass in transport. 

Tip: Grab a right-side window seat (E seat) on the Tokyo–Kyoto route for Mt. Fuji views. On your return leg, switch to the left.

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Kyoto

If Tokyo is the future, Kyoto is the soul. Once the imperial capital, it’s where Japan slows down and stretches out. You’ll find torii gates curling into forests, lantern-lit lanes, hidden tea houses, and centuries-old shrines just around the corner from an espresso bar. It’s quieter, greener, and so much more intimate—and somehow, still full of surprises.

The Shinkansen eased into Kyoto Station just after 4 PM, and I hopped into a taxi headed straight to Holiday Inn Gojo. The hotel was simple and comfortable—nothing too flashy—but well located. Not far from the main sights and tucked away just enough to feel local.

Tip: Get around Kyoto with LUUP. It’s an electric bike and scooter app with a flat ¥50 unlock fee and ¥15 per minute, or a 3-day pass for around ¥3,000. Riding through Kyoto on two wheels is not just convenient—it’s the best way to feel the city.

Tip: Kyoto is a walking city. Bring comfortable shoes, pack light, and don’t be afraid to veer off the map—some of the best moments happen in side streets.

I LUUP’ed over to 2050 Coffee, a sleek little spot that’s actually an offshoot of Kurasu, which I’ll get to later. Had a cold brew on tap—bright, floral, refreshing. Just a 5-minute walk away was Le Labo Café, nestled inside the fragrance store. The space was stunning—calm lighting, clean wood accents, and the comforting scent of sandalwood in the air. Two coffees, both brilliant, and very different in mood.

Tip: Many Kyoto cafés open late (10–11 AM) and close early, so plan your caffeine stops accordingly.

Around lunchtime, I met two friends from my Singapore days, and we headed to a small tempura joint called Tendon Makino Kyoto Teramachi. I got the veggie tempura on rice. Crisp, light batter with just the right amount of chew. They also gave wasabi, ginger, and yuzu to mix into the leftover rice—tiny additions, big flavor. Over the meal, the conversation flowed effortlessly—from travel stories to our mutual love for Japan, to the weirdly comforting feeling of reconnecting with old friends over hot food in a cold country. Post-meal, we ended up in a jazz bar, drinking plum wine (sweet, soft, floral—unlike anything I’d tried before) and soaking in the music. After we left the bar, we left a 5-yen coin as change, thinking it was nothing. But within minutes, the staff came running nearly 100–150 metres down the street to return it to us.

Tip: Tipping isn’t expected in Japan. In fact, it can confuse or even embarrass staff. Great service is considered part of the job—just smile, say thank you, and bow.

A little buzzed and not quite ready to call it a night, I made my way to Gion which is kyoto’s geisha district and caught sight of Hōkan-ji Temple. The place was nearly empty, and it was unbelievable. The five-storey pagoda, standing tall against the indigo sky, the silent streets, the golden pools of lantern light—it felt like I’d walked into another era.

The next morning began at Kinkaku-ji, or the Golden Pavilion—once a shogun’s retirement villa, now a Zen temple. The top two floors are coated in gold leaf, and when the sun hits it just right, the reflection on the pond makes it look like it’s glowing. It’s one of Kyoto’s most photographed spots, and for good reason—it feels like a page from a painting. There are also two “wish bowls” in the temple grounds. Toss a coin in for good luck. I got it in one shot (not flexing).

Tip: The pace in Kyoto is slower. Don’t try to cram too much. Two temples and a great meal can easily fill a day if you let the city breathe.

Craving caffeine, I grabbed a cold lemon sour from Asahi (actual lemon slice floating inside—very extra, very fun) before stumbling upon Koisus on Instagram. It’s a tiny spot doing vegan Japanese curries, and it ended up being one of the best meals I had in Kyoto. I ordered sake (not my thing, sadly), but the curry? Rich, subtly spiced, with Japanese pickles on the side and plating so gorgeous I didn’t want to ruin it.

From there, I headed to Kiyomizu-dera, a UNESCO site perched on a hillside with sweeping views over Kyoto dated back to 778AD. The main hall juts out over the slope, supported by tall wooden pillars. It feels grand, ancient, and surprisingly alive. From up there, you get panoramic views of Kyoto’s tiled rooftops, tree-lined hills, and the promise of more temples hiding in the distance. The walk to the temple—through narrow lanes filled with shops and incense—is half the experience.

Tip: Carry cash. Many temples and older street shops in Kyoto still don’t accept cards or digital wallets.

I then made a visit to Kurasu, one of Kyoto’s most respected coffee spots. I had two killer cups of pour-overs and started chatting with the barista about their beans. That convo led me to another couple from Chicago who were just as obsessed with coffee. They gave me a list of places, including one that was just around the corner.

So of course, I went. Weekenders Coffee—hidden behind a parking lot, no signs, just brilliant coffee. Tiny setup, big flavors. These two shops alone made Kyoto a coffee city for me.

After that, I made my way to Rokujuan, to try a local specialty: Mizu Shingen Mochi, also known as Raindrop Cake. It’s translucent, delicate, and served with brown sugar syrup and roasted soybean flour. Texturally, it’s bizarre—like edible water—but the experience is oddly satisfying and strangely elegant. Also to add, the dish is absolutely beautiful to look at and almost a shame to desroy.

I returned to the hotel for a quick break, then headed out again around 4 PM. Before dinner, I wandered through Nishiki Market, soaking in the late-afternoon energy—stalls winding down, a few stragglers still flipping tamagoyaki which is a japanese omlette, and the smell of soy and sesame lingering in the air. My destination that evening was Vegan Ramen UZU Kyoto—a collaboration with TeamLab, complete with immersive digital art projections and a Michelin Green Star to its name. You have to pre-book and even pre-select your ramen days in advance. I went with the shoyu ramen over the spicy miso.

The meal started with a layered amuse-bouche—a sort of nine-layered reinterpretation of cheese and crackers—followed by a deconstructed sushi plate with nori on the side. Then came the main. The ramen was complex, deep, and comforting. Light enough to not weigh you down, but rich enough to linger. The art on the walls danced throughout the meal—soft light, floating shapes.

On my walk back, just 2 km from the hotel, I passed Sot-l’y-laisse—a vibey little yakitori place I’d spotted earlier. Even though I was full, the Gen Z mood and charcoal scent pulled me in. I ordered a vegetable platter that you grill yourself on a mini grill, plus two standout small plates: aglio olio edamame and bang bang cucumber. Everything was punchy, playful, and perfect for late-night grazing.

Tip: Nishiki Market starts closing around 5:30 PM. Go mid-day for the full buzz and bites. 

I began the next day at Fushimi Inari Taisha, one of Kyoto’s most famous attractions—and easily the most overcrowded. The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice, prosperity, and business success. The iconic vermillion torii gates are undeniably beautiful, but the early sections felt more like a tourist highway than a spiritual path. That said, if you keep climbing, the crowds thin out. The silence creeps back in, the gates narrow, and for a few quiet stretches, it actually feels sacred again. Still, it’s not a spot I’d revisit.

Tip: Most people turn around halfway. Don’t. Keep going. The serenity is worth the sweat.

For lunch, I headed to Vegan Izakaya Masaka, famous for their plant-based gyozas. Crispy-bottomed, juicy, and packed with flavour—I didn’t miss the meat for a second.

Tip: Many restaurants, cafés, and even small museums in Kyoto are closed on Wednesdays or randomly one day a week. Always check opening hours before heading out.

And just like that, my time in Kyoto came to an end.

Things I Missed (for next time):

• Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – A scenic walking path flanked by towering bamboo stalks that stretch up to the sky—one of Kyoto’s most iconic natural sights and a must for photographers and first-time visitors.
  
• Nijo Castle – A UNESCO World Heritage site with well-preserved interiors; worth visiting to see how shoguns actually lived and ruled.
  
• Fushimi Sake District – Over 30 breweries in one walkable area; you can sample, sip, and learn about sake production in under two hours.
  
• Nara – It’s a 45-minute train ride and completely doable as a half-day trip—massive Buddha, bowing deer, and ancient temples included.
  
• Nanzen-ji Temple – Fewer tourists, gorgeous gardens, and a massive aqueduct that makes for a unique photo stop.
  
• Ginkaku-ji & Philosopher’s Path – Ideal for a slower afternoon; scenic canal walk + two temples without the crowds of Kinkaku-ji

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Osaka

Osaka, which was my next stop after Kyoto, is a city with no filter. Loud, playful, and obsessed with food. I reached here via a smooth 30-minute train ride and checked into Aloft Dojima, a hotel with a distinctly Gen Z aesthetic—clean design, neon accents, and playlists you’d actually want to Shazam. The rooms were massive (a rare treat in Japan), and while the location wasn’t smack in the middle of the action, it was a 1-minute walk from the station which made all the difference.

First order of business: coffee. Specifically, Glitch Coffee, which I’d missed in Tokyo and regretted instantly. Osaka gave me a second chance. Also, it was just a 3 minute walk from my hotel. It’s not the cheapest cup around—far from it—but you’re not just paying for coffee, you’re paying for precision, passion, and process. The baristas talk you through each bean and brew like sommeliers. I ended up having three different pour-overs, each one carefully dialed in and genuinely exciting and very unqiue. If you love coffee, Glitch is an experience, not just a café.

Tip: Be mindful of escalator etiquette—it changes by region. In Tokyo, people stand on the left; in Osaka, they stand on the right. Follow the locals.

From there, I walked over to Osaka Castle, one of the city’s most famous landmarks. I didn’t go inside—I was tight on time—but walking the outer grounds was worth it. The towering stone walls, the wide moat, the symmetry of the structure—it’s all beautifully preserved and surprisingly calm, considering it’s in the middle of the city.

My second coffee stop (yes, already) was at Mel Coffee Roasters, a compact little spot with excellent beans and a solid vibe. Caffeinated and ready, I made my way to Dotonbori.

Dotonbori is Osaka’s most iconic district—giant signs, street food on every corner, and an energy that feels somewhere between a theme park and a night market. It’s chaotic, commercial, and completely unmissable. I walked along the canal that cuts through the centre, lined with glowing billboards and restaurants, and of course stopped at the famous Glico Running Man sign—possibly Osaka’s most-photographed spot. Everyone’s posing, arms up, mimicking the sprint. It’s silly and touristy, but weirdly fun. 

Tip: Most shops and restaurants in Dotonbori stay open late—plan this visit post-sunset for maximum atmosphere.

Dinner was at Chibo, a reliable spot for okonomiyaki—Osaka’s beloved savoury pancake. They cook it right in front of you on a teppan grill, and the texture was spot on: crispy edges, fluffy inside, layered with sauce, mayo, and seaweed flakes. It was messy and perfect.

Back to the hotel after that. The next day was all about Expo 2025, which I’ll cover in a separate post going live next week.

For my third and final day in Osaka, I embraced the no-plan plan. Slept in, took it slow, and just wandered. I grabbed a light lunch at Shizen, a salad bar that felt like a reset button for my stomach. Then I made my way to Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street, where I picked up a few kitchen tools—Japanese knives, chopsticks etc. 

From there, I went looking for souvenirs—KitKats, skincare, snacks, the works.

Tip: Go to Don Quijote (Don-Q) for literally everything. It’s a late-night mega store that sells souvenirs, cosmetics, tech accessories, luggage, snacks, costumes, and absolute randomness at solid prices. The layout is chaotic, but that’s part of the charm. If you see something you like—buy it. You’ll never find it again, even in the same store.

I strolled through Shinsaibashi-suji and Tenjinbashi-suji, two long shopping arcades lined with everything from fashion and streetwear to mochi and matcha lattes. Not everything is worth buying, but the people-watching and occasional finds make it worth the walk.

Tip: Look for the tax-free counters in every store. Show your passport to get 8–10% off at checkout.

As the day wound down, I made one last stop at Glitch (again), had three more pour-overs, and picked up some beans to take home. For dinner, I went to Seven Hills, a Lebanese spot tucked into a side street. Book in advance if you want to get in. I ordered the hummus and baba ghanoush—both were smooth, balanced, and refreshing after a week of heavy Japanese flavours. 

Things I Missed in Osaka (for next time):

• Universal Studios Japan – Especially Super Nintendo World. Perfect for theme park lovers and nostalgia seekers.
  
• Umeda Sky Building – The Floating Garden Observatory offers sweeping 360° views of Osaka’s skyline—best at sunset or night.

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Japan doesn’t just leave an impression—it rewires how you notice the world. The way a train glides in exactly on time, how even silence has texture, or how convenience stores somehow manage to feel like treasure chests. 

I came for the sights, but stayed for the sensations—the rhythm of daily life, the kindness of strangers, the coffee (God, the coffee). Japan exceeded my expectations in every way.

There’s still so much I didn’t get to—like witnessing the cherry blossoms in full bloom, or diving deeper into the rural heartlands, or divining in Okinawa, or visiting Hokkaido. So yes, I’ll be back. But until then, this is where I leave you—with a camera roll full of small moments, a suitcase heavier with Food and Skincare, and a craving for just one more coffee.

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I wanted to share my experience of visiting Oman, a country I first explored in 2016. I made another visit later in 2019 as well. Both trips were brief, so while my personal memories have faded somewhat, I owe massive credit to my uncle’s blog (https://raghavbihani.wordpress.com/) for providing much of the information and details. I’ve added some personal anecdotes, as I always do in my blogs. If you’re looking for a detailed itinerary and process, I highly recommend checking out his blog post, as it is both vivid and thorough. I must apologize for the lack of restaurant names and specific food details in my account—unfortunately, those memories didn’t stick with me. I have, however, included my first trip in grave detail and some basic details about my second visit as well, which, as you’ll read below, didn’t go quite as planned. Enjoy!

Oman, often overshadowed by its flashy neighbors, is a land of contrasts and hidden wonders. Picture towering dunes, rugged mountains, and crystal-clear wadis all within reach of serene, unspoiled beaches. This is a country where ancient traditions thrive alongside modern comforts, offering travelers a taste of authentic Arabia. With its growing accessibility thanks to Oman Air and a strategic location just a short flight from major Middle Eastern hubs, Oman is the perfect destination for those seeking adventure, relaxation, and a deeper connection to the rich culture of the Arabian Peninsula.

A tentative short Oman itinerary

Day 1: Day in the Mountains : Jebel Akhtar or Jebel Sham mountains.
Day 2: Day trip to Nizwa Souk and Fort and forts in Bahla/Jibreen before proceeding to Wahiba Sands for an Arabian Night
Day 3: Ras al Jinz in the night via Wadi Bani Khalid for viewing of the turtle nesting
Day 4-5: Back to Muscat for a relaxing 2 days at the beach. 

This could be streched out for 7 days also for a more relaxing option with 2 days in the Mountains and 3 days in Muscat.

The mountains of Jabal Akhdhar 

When in Oman, experiencing the mountains is an absolute must, and your choice of mountain depends largely on the hotel you decide to stay in. We chose the Alila Jabal Akhdar, and it was nothing short of spectacular. The panoramic views were breathtaking, the infinity pool was a dream, the villas were pure luxury, and the service was impeccable. If you’re looking for other options, The View Oman or Anantara are also excellent choices, with Sahab Hotel and Jebel Shams Resort offering slightly more budget-friendly accommodations.

The Alila Jabal Akhdar’s property is beautifully integrated into the landscape, with the main hotel and villas perched right at the mountain’s edge. The infinity pool is to marvel at as the views are unparalleled. Constructed from local materials, it blends seamlessly with its surroundings. You can walk along the property’s mountain edge, soaking in the views, or embark on hikes of varying difficulty. For those seeking a thrill, cycling through the rugged terrain is an option, but if relaxation is your goal, the infinity pool and spa won’t disappoint. The rooms themselves are spacious, with a distinct local vibe that set this place apart from the other hotels I’ve stayed in.

Nizwa, an ancient city in the Ad Dakhiliyah region of northern Oman, is a charming town that once served as Oman’s capital. It’s home to a quaint souk and the historic Nizwa Fort, perfect for a bit of souvenir shopping.  The surrounding area is dotted with other fascinating forts like Jibreen Castle and Bahla Fort. Bahla Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987, is particularly impressive and definitely worth a visit only if you’re passing through Nizwa on your way to the mountains.

Our journey took us up to Jabal Akhdar. The mountains, though barren, were stunning with their deep canyons and expansive views, reminiscent of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. As we reached the summit, the air turned refreshingly cool—a welcome change from the heat of Nizwa.

I have to admit, my first night was marred by a mild fever, but that didn’t dampen my spirits. We enjoyed a light dinner in the main dining area and continued to soak in the experience. The food in Oman, by the way, is generally excellent, with plenty of vegetarian options available.

Wahiba sands 

Oman is home to a portion of the Rub’ al Khali, or the Empty Quarter, the world’s largest continuous sand desert. Though the Empty Quarter itself is remote, with no hotels and only camping options, and quite far from the usual tourist routes, you can still get a taste of its vastness by visiting Wahiba Sands. The area is defined by a boundary of 180 kilometers north to south and 80 kilometers east to west, with an area of 12,500 square kilometers.

Wahiba Sands offers a more accessible desert experience, with several camps to choose from, and picking the right one can make a big difference. We opted for Desert Nights Camp, the top luxury choice in the area, but if you’re looking for something more budget-friendly, the Arabian Oryx Camp next door is a great alternative. Another interesting option is the 1000 Nights Camp, which even boasts a swimming pool, though it’s a bit further into the desert, about 35 kilometers in.

These camps are nestled amidst vast, towering sand dunes, far removed from the hustle and bustle of civilization, with only the expansive, star-lit sky above. While the activities at these camps are fairly consistent, one experience you absolutely can’t miss is Dune Bashing. It’s a thrilling adventure, as you race through the dunes in a SUV, navigating steep climbs and heart-pounding descents, sometimes even in reverse! The excitement level really depends on the expertise of your driver. If you’re up for a challenge, quad biking offers a more hands-on way to conquer the dunes, though it demands a bit of caution.

For those who prefer a more laid-back experience, the camps also organize sunset drives into the desert. There’s something magical about sitting atop a dune, as the sun sinks below the horizon, painting the sands in rich hues of brown, beige, and orange. It’s a serene moment, perfect for reflection or capturing beautiful photos. And of course, for younger guests, a camel ride is always a delightful option.

As night falls, the desert truly comes alive. Under a blanket of stars, you can enjoy traditional Arabic dance performances or indulge in a lavish Omani feast, seated on carpets spread over the sand. It’s like stepping into the pages of a storybook, experiencing an Arabian Night in all its glory.

 Swimming in Wadi Shab / Wadi Tiwi / Bani Khalid

In Oman, wadis are valleys or dry riverbeds between mountains, often filled with water during rains or from intermittent streams. Some wadis, like Wadi Tiwi, Wadi Bani Khalid, and Wadi Shab, have permanent water sources and are must-visit spots. Swimming and picnicking at these scenic locations are highlights of any trip to Oman.

The crystal-clear waters are perfect for a refreshing dip, with swimming spots nestled between mountains, inside caves, or under small waterfalls. Visiting on a quiet day is ideal to enjoy the tranquility. We had a blast swimming, though it’s important to be cautious of rocks and stick to deeper areas. The areas are very picturesque and photo worthy, to say the least. Wadi Shab requires a bit of hiking to reach, adding a touch of adventure, while Wadi Tiwi and Wadi Bani Khalid are accessible by car.

Ras al Jinz

Ras Al Jinz is a small fishing village situated in Ras Al Hadd, along the eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. This village is renowned as a crucial nesting site for the endangered green turtles, with over 20,000 turtles coming to its shores annually to lay their eggs. The area is carefully monitored by the government for conservation purposes, and access is only permitted through guided tours. Each tour is limited to 20-25 people, with around eight tours scheduled each night around 9 pm, and another four in the early morning hours.

Witnessing the turtles emerge at twilight to lay their eggs is a truly magical experience. The government takes significant measures to ensure that this natural event remains undisturbed, and as visitors, it’s our responsibility to respect this delicate process. The beach is a short walk from the visitor center, and groups are required to take turns viewing the turtles from a safe, non-intrusive distance. Unfortunately, there are always a few tourists who don’t follow these guidelines, which can detract from the experience and stress the turtles. While you wait for your turn, the guides provide in-depth explanations about the turtle nesting process and are always ready to answer any questions. 

Muscat

Muscat, cradled between the rugged Al Hajar mountains and the turquoise waters of the Arabian Sea. This enchanting capital seamlessly blends Oman’s rich maritime heritage with its vibrant, evolving culture, making it a true jewel of the Arabian Peninsula. No visit to Muscat is complete without staying at a beach resort. For families seeking a blend of location and activities, Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah stands out. This resort complex is nestled on a secluded bay and consists of three distinct properties, two of which are connected by a delightful 500-meter lazy river. With a soft sandy beach, multiple swimming pools, and a variety of dining options, it’s an ideal spot for a family getaway.

Children will love the play zone, adventure zone, and aqua park, while adults can enjoy a range of water sports or a relaxing dolphin-watching trip right from the resort. The private beach is a standout, perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or simply enjoying water sports. The breakfast spread is lavish and delicious, setting the tone for a perfect day. The resort also features a nearby mall, giant board games, and plenty of entertainment to keep everyone occupied. For those seeking a quieter escape, there’s also an adults-only property within the complex.

When in Muscat, a visit to the Grand Mosque is a must, which was completed in 2001. This stunning modern mosque is home to the world’s second-largest carpet and features breathtaking interiors, including massive 14 meter tall chandeliers and intricate wood and ceramic work. The serene courtyard, with its manicured gardens and reflective pools, offers a tranquil space for contemplation. The mosque is meticulously maintained, and visits are allowed only in the mornings, outside of prayer times only. A certain dress code is also required so please obey the cultural norms.

Other points of interest include the Mutrah Souk and its promenade, ideal for souvenir shopping. Additionally, consider visiting the Royal Opera House, a symbol of Omani culture and heritage. The Al Alam Palace, with its unique architecture and stunning gardens, is another iconic site. 

The Second Trip

The second trip was a shorter stay, just four days in Muscat, with planned day trips to the wadi and the desert. However, as soon as we arrived, I was struck with a 103-degree fever and ended up bedridden for nearly three days. Thanks to the swift care from the hotel’s doctor, I recovered quickly—a big shout out to the Shangri-La for their excellent service. Despite the rocky start, we still managed to explore the major sites, and while nothing particularly new happened, the trip was another peaceful and serene experience, reaffirming Muscat’s unique charm.

From the rugged mountains and serene wadis to the vast deserts and vibrant capital of Muscat, each experience left a lasting impression. Even with the unexpected challenges of my second trip, the warmth of Omani hospitality and the stunning landscapes made every moment worthwhile. Oman is more than just a destination; it’s a place that invites you to explore, unwind, and connect with its deep-rooted traditions and breathtaking scenery.

We started planning a trip to Kashmir when the pandemic had quite subsided around February 2021, keeping its famous Tulip Festival in mind that falls in early April. It got me excited as I wanted to explore this territory of India for a long time. Kashmir, also known as the crown of India, is a very controversial state; thus we decided to limit our trip to 3 areas only – Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Srinagar.

Some of our family members including me were traveling from Mumbai a day prior, and my parents were to join us from Kolkata the next day. Moments before landing into Srinagar, I got a first-hand glimpse of the snow-capped mountains of the Himalayas. The views were outstanding! As we landed in Srinagar, the cold breeze was such a pleasant welcome to Kashmir. We collected our baggage and did our Covid antigen test. Srinagar airport was very crowded due to the rush in tourism, but we were lucky to get out quickly. We were greeted by our two drivers with SUV’s outside, because we were a group of 9 with plenty of luggage. As we left for our hotel, we saw beautiful scenes of lakes and mountains en-route our journey. Away from the maddening city, nature enticed us in such a way which was totally unimaginable. We soon reached our boutique hotel Nadis, which had a beautiful small garden, a small vegetable patch, only 18 cosy rooms, and a view to die for. We were all starving by now, which was probably evident on our faces. So the warm owners of the hotel served us some pakodas and sandwiches which were delicious, topped up with some Kashmiri kahwa. Kahwa is a warm Kashmiri herbal tea enhanced with spices like saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, and finally garnished with slivered almonds. It completely warmed our body and soul. After a boost of energy, we decided to go to Harwan Bagh which was just next door to our hotel.

Beautiful and massive in size, Harwan Bagh is a beautiful garden. A beautiful canal, fed from a lake just behind the garden, passes through its center. The canal is laced with blossoming flowerbeds and chinar trees planted all around it. Inside the park, we also saw a cherry blossom tree which was a pictorial spot. After our fun walk and visit to the bagh, we had some ice cream and chips and went back to our hotel. After a round of card games, we proceeded to the dining hall for dinner where we got a taste of some authentic Kashmiri cuisine. We sampled paneer in tomato gravy, Kashmiri saag, nadru yakhni (lotus stem in yoghurt sauce) and of course dal. The meal was so authentic and delicious that I literally had no room for any desserts, and I just crashed after this long, eventful and tiring day.

The next morning after having breakfast, we had some time before we were to meet my parents landing from Kolkata; thus, we decided to explore Shalimar Bagh built by Jehangir for his beloved wife. Shalimar in Sanskrit means ‘abode of love’ and that is what this garden is truly. Beautiful chinar trees, flowing waters of the fountain, wild flowers spread all across this massive garden will soothe your senses and calm your nerves. This garden is picturesque with many photography points and views to soak in. Just after this soothing excursion, we decided to have lunch at the famous 14th Avenue Cafe. As we entered the café, we were greeted by a huge display of awesome looking pastries. We ordered hummus (must order), pizza, pasta and of course desserts. The food was very good and the ambience was also great. My parents joined us outside the restaurant, which looked somewhat like a family reunion in the times of this pandemic. We immediately departed for Pahalgam from here. On route, we stopped by to drink some authentic Kahwa which had captured our tastebuds since yesterday. We also shopped a bit of saffron and some other saffron cosmetics like cream and scrub which are so good and are a must buy! We made one more stop before reaching Pahalgam to drink some fresh green apple juice which was amazingly pure and delicious. We also got the opportunity to purchase some local Kashmiri attar (perfume) here. After a 2 hour drive, we finally reached our Hotel Pine’n Peak which is a part of the Welcomhotels owned by ITC.

Pahalgam

Since we were a group of 9 people, we had booked a cosy 4 bedroom stand-alone cottage. It was split across 3 floors and really luxurious. I along with my cousin sisters captured the attic room which was also the biggest room in the cottage. After unpacking, we headed for the main mall road of Pahalgam where we stopped for a warm cup of coffee at the famous Cafe Log Inn, attached to the Pahalgam Hotel. We had some good accompanying snacks and warming cups of coffees. Just a bit later when it started becoming dark, we headed back to our hotel. Since we were too tired, we had dinner at our hotel only and crashed out for an interesting day that was to follow.

All of us woke up early the next day as we had a long day ahead of us. We had planned a day trip to Betaab Valley and Chandanwari. The first stop on our list was Chandanwari. Chandanwari, situated 30 minutes on the outskirts of Pahalgam is a place of immense significance as it is the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra on foot or horseback. Snowy locations and sparse greenery dominate the topography of this scenic location. Upon arrival, we got ample activities to choose from such as trekking, hiking, pony ride and snow sledging. The steep inclines also made great natural slides for tourists to enjoy on. We engaged a local photographer and enjoyed the scenic location, while throwing snow in the air and having the time of our life. At the end, to energise ourselves, we sipped on some warm Kahwa before we proceeded towards our next stop ‘Betaab Valley’. Interestingly, ‘Betaab Valley’ derived its name from the famous Bollywood film ‘Betaab’ shot here in 1983. The huge expanse of the green meadows is an ideal place to enjoy and spend a few hours. People selling shawls, food and other miscellaneous items make this place a whole lot fun and exciting.

The next day was also very interesting! At sharp 10 o’clock, we were at the reception for our trip to Baisaran valley, also called mini Switzerland by locals in Pahalgam. To reach this place, we had to ride a pony for 1.30 hours. The trail was certainly not too good, made worse by the onslaught of rain the previous night, which made the trail extremely muddy. Upon reaching this beautiful spot, all we could see was lush meadows as far as the eye can see, surrounded by beautiful mountains and tall trees. I could hear my parents reminiscing several Bollywood movies that were shot at this location! It was truly a sight to behold and soak in. We were all hungry by now being shaken on the horseback, so we had some piping hot Maggi which was very delicious and energising. The journey back was much quicker, and as soon as we reached our hotel, we all had a refreshing bath to clean up all the dirt we had accumulated. For lunch, our hotel manager had made special plans on the banks of the Lidder River at Heevan Hotel. Since it was extremely breezy, all of us were given warm blankets to wrap ourselves in. Our table was in a private setting, with our private music playing in the background of the rippling river water soothing our ears. As the warm food arrived, we all dug in with enthusiasm. It was a literal Kashmiri feast. We had rajma, Gucchi matar (morel mushrooms with peas), Nadru yakhni, tomato paneer and Kashmiri saag. After this magnificent feast, we went back to our hotel and packed our bags as we had to leave for Gulmarg the next day. After packing our bags, we had time to make a small visit to the mall road, so we headed to Pahalgam hotel to roam around in their beautiful gardens by the Lidder river. We got stunning 180 degree views of the beautiful scenery of Kashmir from there, so we snapped a few interesting family pics here. Suddenly, it started drizzling and thus we headed back to our hotel and wound up our activities for the day.

Gulmarg

We left for Gulmarg the next morning immediately after breakfast. It was a 4 hour long road trip, but I could literally not take my eyes off the window as I was soaking in all the gorgeous views that are so characteristic of Kashmir. As we reached Gulmarg, we were greeted with lots of snow scattered around, indicating that the temperature was definitely below 0 degrees.

Gulmarg, meaning meadow of flowers, truly lives up to its name. The area is filled with excellent views of the glorious Himalayas and the scenic beauty is a must-watch. We were staying at The vintage Gulmarg which is a boutique hotel located in central Gulmarg. Our rooms were very spacious and the staff was very heart-warming. We were starving, thus we decided to stop by for lunch at Northwind cafe. This cafe was so small that it could only accommodate 8-10 people. The food took a little while to come, but it was amazingly delicious (specially the burgers and the pizzas). People who visit Gulmarg must definitely come to this highly recommended place and have a bite. As we left the café, to our surprise it started snowing. The tiny snowflakes ❄️ were falling off the sky, making it look so pristine. To enjoy this ‘once in a lifetime’ moment, we decided to walk back to the hotel instead of taking the car. For our evening time, we decided to go to Black Bear Brew which sells artisanal coffee. As expected, the coffee was good here and the ambience was cozy too. Finally for dinner, we stayed indoors and dined in our hotel restaurant only, which we later found was a hot tourist choice for meals.

The next morning took us all by surprise! When we woke up and opened our blinds, the whole of Gulmarg was decked in snow. It had perhaps snowed the whole night, and now it was bright and sunny, with a clear day. All of us rushed down in our night-suits with a bit of warm gear, and started playing in the snow. It was a fun and exciting moment. Nature has its ways of expressing its beauty, and we were fortunate to witness a sight that is usually rare in a short trip. After some time, we all got ready and departed for our day excursion to Khilanmarg.

Asia’s largest and highest, and world’s second-largest and second highest cable car project, the Gulmarg Gondola taking you to Khilanmarg is the top attraction in Gulmarg. In fact, a Gulmarg tour without a ride on the popular cable car is considered incomplete. The gondola ride is split in two journeys – the first ride takes us from Gulmarg at 8,000 feet to Khilanmarg at 10,000 feet. Most tourists limit their journeys to this point, where they can enjoy many tourist attractions such as snow sledging, snow mobile, skiing and can pick up a variety of snacks such as chips, hot corn, Maggi, kahwa etc. This place is flocked by tourists and looks like a mini carnival destination. However, the second stop at the much higher point of Afarwat at 14,000 feet is where the views are truly unmatched. The luscious snow and mountain ranges as far as the eye can see make for an unforgettable experience. Because of the very high altitude and rather quick incline, it takes time to acclimatize to the environment, so symptomatic people need to be careful. We only spent a short while here, and were amongst the very few people who had come up to this point, but it was truly worth our experience.

Upon reaching back to Khilanmarg, we decided to take the sledge ride down to Gulmarg. We were told that it would take 45 minutes, which actually worked out to double the time. It was a rather rough ride as it had snowed the day before, erasing all the sledge tracks and making the snow deeper than usual. Our sledge got stuck many times, even toppling us on occasions! But it was a different and unique experience, and it will stay in my memory forever. As we reached Gulmarg, we headed straight to the nearby Khyber Hotel for lunch. Khyber is the best hotel of Gulmarg, and one of the premium hotels of Kashmir too. As we entered, we were greeted by the majestic entrance of the hotel with floor to ceiling windows and sprawling views. Starving after our tiresome sledge ride, we immediately went to their restaurant and ordered some continental dishes which were fresh and delicious. After our meal, we wanted to explore the hotel; so we roamed around a bit and snapped some beautiful pics in the snow covered lawns. Just before leaving, we could not resist our temptation to have a round of Kahwa at their famous tea lounge, which was delicious as usual.

As customary with most tourists in Gulmarg, we concluded the day by a visit to the famous shiv temple standing majestically atop the snow fields, where I was told the famous Bollywood song ‘Jai jai shiv shankar’ was picturized almost 50 years back!

Srinagar

The next morning, we woke up to see that all the snow from the meadows had melted away and Gulmarg was clean and green. It was time to depart for Srinagar now, and after a 2 hour car journey, we arrived at The Lalit Grand Palace. It is an iconic and landmark hotel of Srinagar that lies in the eastern more renowned part of the city with its sprawling lawns overlooking the Dal Lake. As you enter the property, a long beautiful drive with flowers on both sides takes you up to the fountain entrance of the hotel. The historic and grand luxury property seamlessly combines 5-star amenities with distinguished antique furniture and fittings, rich upholstery, ethnic carpets and local handicrafts. We had a 2 bedroom cottage and 2 deluxe rooms assigned to us. The rooms were extremely spacious and had direct access to the perfectly manicured gardens.

For lunch, we were recommended to go to Gulab’s which is famous for its chaats, and is besides the famous Krishna Dhaba (shut temporarily). Besides serving brilliant chaats, their kebab sizzler was also a hit. After concluding with this hearty lunch, we went to the Shankaracharya temple as planned. To reach this temple, there is a climb of 242 steps and a further 54 steps to the main shrine. When you reach the top of this hill, you get the best imaginable views of Srinagar (360 degrees). I am not over exaggerating the fact that Indian scenic beauty is no less than any other place in the world. All Hindu devotees and even other tourists must visit this beautiful place for a visual treat! Another point to note that photography and phones are not allowed.

In the evening at around 5pm, we went down the road from our hotel to the Dal Lake where we all hopped onto 2 shikaras. A ‘Shikara’ is a traditional gondola-type light covered rowing boat which is mostly seen on the pristine Dal Lake, apart from other lakes in the Kashmir Valley. It is one of the most incredible and relaxing aspects of a holiday in Kashmir and should be included in your itinerary if you want to experience the surreal beauty of this region to the fullest. An hourly ride costs between 800-1000 rupees. The journey is surreal and many floating vendors on their shikara come to sell their interesting products. We purchased some ice creams, mojitos, cold coffees and fresh fruit salads. The day-beds on the shikaras make the ride even more comfortable and relaxing. I would strongly recommend to take a shawl or a blanket to cover yourself from the cold as it gets pretty chilly in the evening.

After the shikara ride, we went to the Taj Hotel for dinner. Taj hotel is located on a hill which provides it with breath-taking views of Srinagar. The ambience of the hotel is also very heart-warming. For dinner, we had pre-booked a selection of Chinese and Oriental dishes. The food as expected was great, and the chef made some special dishes for us as well with his compliments. The staff was also very courteous and allowed us to take desserts from the buffet spread, even though we chose to opt for a-la-carte dining. The day was fun, exciting and well spent.

Each morning at The Lalit is beautiful and pleasant. The breakfast is set outside in the massive open lawns during peak season where people enjoy their meal overlooking scenic views. This was the perfect start to our day. We had planned this day for local shopping, as we wanted to take back home plenty of goodies such as kahwa, honey, nuts, attar etc. After finishing with our shopping agenda, we went for lunch to a highly recommended cafe called Goodfellas Cafe. The entrance to this place might take you a bit by surprise, but don’t be fooled by it. We ordered some pizzas, pastas and french fries and let me tell you, they were one of the best we have ever had before. The pizzas were melting and oozing out with cheese and the fries were seasoned to perfection. After this meal, we got greedy and went to a nearby recommended tea room Chai Jaai for a cuppa. The decor was beyond beautiful and their selection of exotic teas is worth a glance. This is what I would call an Instagram place, as the presentation is unique and different, and the decor is very European. After winding up this ritual, we went to our daily routine of a shikara ride which was great, as it was sunset time and the colours all around were simply amazing. It was so beautiful that adjectives will fall short to explain what we witnessed.

The next day was going to be a big day and perhaps the most important reason for our entire trip. We were going to see the famous Tulip Gardens today! We woke up early at 7.30 am, as we had to make it to the entrance of the Tulip Gardens by 8am to beat the huge daytime rushes that start after 11am. Srinagar’s tulip garden is the largest in Asia and consists of 7 terraces. As you enter the gardens, the eye gets riveted to the numerous parallel running rows of more than a million multi-coloured tulip flowers. A gentle uphill climb brings us to the delightful fruit trees that dot the rim of this garden, which give us a visual break from the beautiful tulips. There are many picturesque spots here which are postcard perfect. I for one hadn’t seen such a display ever.

From here, we went to Chashm-e-Shahi. There is nothing special about this small garden, other than the fresh drinking spring water. The flowers are repeated in some patterns and the garden is not very well maintained. The more interesting part of this place was that my 4 year old cute sister got dressed in local Kashmiri costume for some nice pics, etching some memories of this place!

The next stop ahead of Chashm-e-Shahi was Pari Mahal. This is in my opinion an extremely under-rated place. A 17th-century structure made of arched niches and stone walls set high above the shores of Dal Lake, Pari Mahal literally meaning ‘Palace of Fairies’ is worth visiting for the great views of the serene valley of Srinagar. The landscape depicts an example of Islamic architecture and patronage of art during the reign of the then Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. This place has the second best view of Srinagar after Shankaracharya temple. Our last and final stop on this journey was Nishaat Bagh. This is one of the largest gardens in Srinagar. In contrast to Pari Mahal, I feel this place is a little over-rated as its huge expanse had not much architecture, nor fountains or flowers as we get to see in Shalimar Bagh. After clicking a few pictures, we left quickly for lunch.

We were craving Wazwan food as it was going to be our last meal in Kashmir; thus we decided to go to a recommended restaurant called Stream. They served fresh food with a nice cozy atmosphere. We were witnessing one of the worst traffic in Srinagar that day due to the weekend rush of the Tulip gardens, with many roads shut or diverted temporarily. To save us some time, we decided to take a shikara ride from just outside our restaurant that would drop us to our hotel side. We packed in a deal to take us via Nigeen Lake and the old city of Srinagar that resembles Venice due to its canal system. The first leg of our shikara ride was serene as we were sailing through narrow water lanes surrounded by tall grasses. We enjoyed our moments in Nigeen Lake as well, but slowly and impactfully, the weather started to take a sharp turn. It became very windy, the temperatures dipped and the shikara could not be steered towards our hotel jetty. The boatman somehow manoeuvred the shikara to the nearest land mass, where we then called our cars and head back to the hotel. This was a scary experience, but we all thanked our good luck that we all came back safely on shore. The eventful and busy day, with the last shikara experience had drained us completely, so we stayed back at the hotel for a peaceful and light dinner.

The next morning was our departure day from Kashmir. At breakfast, we revised all the lovely memories we had created in this vacation, and all the fun we had during this trip to PRISTINE Kashmir.

If there is heaven on earth, It’s here… its here… its here!!

Jahangir