Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka doesn’t try to impress you, and that’s precisely what makes it good. A small island just off the southern tip of India, it has ancient ruins, tea-covered hills, decent surf, wildlife, colonial streets and a food scene that quietly holds its own. It moves at its own pace, unbothered by the noise of flashier destinations in the region. The cafe culture is genuinely solid, the coastline is never far away, and there’s an ease to the place, a kind of unhurried confidence, that makes it hard not to like. It won’t be the most dramatic country you ever visit. It probably won’t top any list. But not every destination needs to blow you away. Some just need to feel right and Sri Lanka, for the most part, does.

I’ll be honest about the shape of this trip from the start, as I always try to be. Four nights in Sri Lanka, two of which were spent at a work conference. That left me with two real days to actually experience the country, both in Colombo. No hill trains, no leopard safaris, no ancient ruins by torchlight. Just the city, its cafes and its coastline. And yet, it was enough to make me absolutely certain I needed to come back.

This blog is split into two halves. The first half is mine — two days in Colombo, told the way I like to tell things. Honestly, hungrily, and with a strong cup of coffee in hand.The second is for you — the reader planning a proper Sri Lanka trip, the places I didn’t get to but fully intend to one day, ranked in the order I’d personally do them.

Colombo

Colombo is not what most people picture when they think of Sri Lanka. No paddy fields, no ancient temples on the horizon, no postcard beaches. It is a proper city — layered, occasionally chaotic, and considerably more interesting than its reputation gives it credit for. I had two days here before the conference took over. I didn’t plan them particularly carefully. As it turned out, I didn’t need to.

Day One

I landed in the morning and checked into the ITC Ratnadipa which is the brand’s first property outside India, sitting on Beira Lake in the heart of the city. On paper it has everything: grand facilities, a strong location, the ITC name. In practice, it felt like a property that had invested heavily in the broad strokes and overlooked the details. The kind of hotel where the pool is impressive but the service lacks the warmth and curation you’d expect at that price point. Fine, comfortable, and slightly disappointing in the way that only expensive hotels can be.

I left fairly quickly.

Lunch was at the Ceylon Curry Club, and it was one of the better decisions of the trip. Sri Lankan food is not Indian food, though the two are routinely and lazily grouped together. It is coconut-forward, boldly spiced, and built around a logic that is entirely its own. A proper Sri Lankan spread means rice surrounded by a constellation of small dishes which each with a different character, each better when eaten alongside the others. I had curries, sambals, and a jackfruit preparation that was genuinely outstanding. If you leave this country without eating properly, that is entirely on you.

From lunch I walked to Radicle which is a specialty coffee shop that doubles as an art gallery, quiet and unhurried in the way that good cafes always are. The barista and I got talking, the way you do when there’s nobody else in the room, and somewhere between the first cup and the second he told me I had to go to Grind the next day. I noted it down. Genuine Tip : walk into the best specialty cafe you can find, talk to the person behind the counter, and ask them where they’d go. The answer will always be better than anything you find online.

I followed it up with another stop at Divide, a second specialty cafe nearby, partly because the coffee was excellent and partly because I needed the caffeine to keep exploring.

I came back to the hotel mid-afternoon, used the spa, and headed to the gym and then out again for dinner at Gini. Modern Sri Lankan cuisine, cooked over fire. I was eating alone, which turned out to be exactly the right way to experience it. The chef came out and walked me through every dish personally which all used the open fire techniques, the local ingredients, the thinking behind each preparation. We talked about Sri Lankan cuisine, about what fire does to flavour, about food as a philosophy. It was the kind of conversation that a full table would have interrupted. The food matched it: charred leeks over cashew sauce, charred cabbage with mushroom sauce and local cheese, an eggplant moussaka with a Sri Lankan twist, and a molten chocolate cake with mint crumble and ice cream that closed the meal on exactly the right note. Before I left, the chef mentioned Kampong. I wrote that down too.

Day Two

I was up early for a dive with Island Scuba — and if I’m honest, this was the highlight of the trip for me, though I suspect diving always will be.

Colombo is not a city most people associate with diving, which is part of what makes it worth knowing about. The waters off the coast are home to 18 wrecks including cargo ships, fishing boats, vessels of various sizes and histories, all all resting on the seabed within easy reach of the city. I have my Advanced Open Water certification, which opened up the deeper sites. We went down to two wrecks sitting at around 30 metres which were a cargo ship and a fishing boat, both encrusted with marine life and carrying that particular atmosphere that only wrecks have underwater. The marine life around them was rich with ray, lionfish, and the general sense of abundance you get around structures that have been sitting on the seabed long enough to become ecosystems. I also met a German couple on the boat who were seasoned wreck divers, and the three of us spent the surface intervals comparing notes on dive sites around the world. That is one of the small pleasures of diving that nobody really warns you about — the people you meet between the dives are often as interesting as what you find below. If you dive, Colombo’s wrecks are genuinely worth your time.

After the dives I visited the Gangaramaya Temple being one of Colombo’s most significant Buddhist temples, sitting on the edge of Beira Lake. It is eclectically decorated and surprisingly vast inside, the kind of place that accumulates meaning slowly the longer you spend in it. From there I went to GRIND for lunch which was the place the barista at Radicle had pointed me toward the day before. The rainbow bowl was as good as advertised and as good to look at as it was to eat.

The afternoon was unhurried : Galle Face Mall, a grooming session, some time looking up at the Lotus Tower, which is the tallest self-supported structure in South Asia and hard to miss on the Colombo skyline, and a wander through the boutiques on Ward Place and Horton Place. I finished with a poke bowl at Seed Cafe. Colombo rewards this kind of aimless afternoon. Nobody is in a rush here and eventually you stop being in one too.

The evening arranged itself around the T20 World Cup semi final between India and England. We started at the hotel bar for the first innings which comfortable enough, but lacking atmosphere. So we moved, on the chef’s recommendation from the night before, to Kampong. The entrance is a corner chicken shop — genuinely unassuming, the kind of place you’d walk past without a second thought. Push past the storage racks at the back and you find yourself in a low-lit, chic speakeasy with a cocktail menu built around the districts of Colombo. The menu is deliberately short and everything on it is good. We worked through the whole thing. It was, in every sense, the right place to end the night and I wouldn’t have found it without a conversation over dinner the evening before.

The next two nights were a different Sri Lanka entirely. The conference had moved us to the Pegasus Reef Hotel which was further out, right on the coast. The days were full with long sessions, good conversations, the particular exhaustion that comes from being professionally switched on for hours at a stretch. The nights were the opposite. Beach, a drink, the sound of the water. One morning I broke away for brunch at Cafe Kampuk — Turkish eggs, excellent ambience and very good coffee.

Sri Lanka didn’t need two weeks to make an impression. Two days in Colombo and it had already done the damage. This was the kind of trip that doesn’t leave you satisfied, just hungry for more, which is a cruel thing for a country to do. The hill trains, the leopards, Galle, the east coast which was unvisited. I have no excuse except that I ran out of days, which is the most common travel problem in the world and the least sympathetic one. I’ll be back. Probably with a longer itinerary, a better hotel choice, and the same completely unrealistic idea that I’ll fit everything in.

If you’re planning your own Colombo, here’s where I’d point you.

Hotels : Paradise Road Tintagel, Shangri-La Colombo, Galle Face Hotel, Taj Samudra, Jetwing Colombo Seven
Restaurants : Ministry of Crab, Kaema Sutra, Nihonbashi, Monsoon, The Gallery Cafe, Upali’s by Nawaloka, Barefoot Garden Cafe, VOC Cafe, Nuga Gama, Kodamba Kade
Bars : Uncle’s, Shoulders By Harpos
Sights : Galle Face Green, Dutch Hospital Precinct, Jami ul-Alfar Mosque, Independence Square, Seema Malakaya, National Museum, Pettah Market

Places I Missed (Ranked)

A note before we begin: I haven’t been to any of these. This ranking is built on research, conversations with people who have, and mostly the order in which I’d personally book my return trip. I’ve noted alongside each who it’s best suited to.

Sigiriya & the Cultural Triangle The one I’d do first, without question. Sigiriya is a 5th-century rock fortress rising nearly 200 metres from the central plains — frescoes, landscaped gardens, and a lion’s paw gateway built by a king who chose a boulder as his palace. The surrounding Cultural Triangle also takes in Dambulla’s cave temples and the ancient city of Polonnaruwa.
Best for: history lovers and anyone who appreciates a genuine UNESCO wonder that hasn’t been overrun.
Yala National Park Sri Lanka has the highest density of leopards of any country in the world, and Yala is where you find them. Sightings are genuinely frequent — add elephants, sloth bears, and crocodiles and it’s a safari that holds its own against anywhere.
Best for: wildlife enthusiasts and anyone who’s done East Africa and wants something different.
Galle A 16th-century Dutch fort town on the southwestern tip of the island, Galle is one of those places that rewards simply wandering. Cobbled streets, colonial architecture, boutique hotels tucked inside old merchant houses, good restaurants and cafes, and a rampart walk at sunset that’s hard to beat. It’s compact, charming, and very easy to spend a day or two in without any real agenda.
Best for: architecture lovers, slow walkers, and anyone who wants history without the full cultural circuit.
The South Coast — Mirissa, Unawatuna & Tangalle Three distinct beaches within easy reach of each other. Mirissa for whale watching between November and April. Unawatuna for the classic lively beach town experience. Tangalle for those who want the south coast without the crowds.
Best for: beach lovers, whale watching in season, and a proper wind-down after a cultural circuit.
Trincomalee & the East Coast Sri Lanka’s best-kept secret and the one most Indians haven’t discovered yet. Stunning uncrowded beaches at Nilaveli and Uppuveli, one of the world’s great natural harbours, and Arugam Bay — a globally recognised surf point further south.
Best for: solitude seekers, surfers, divers, and travellers willing to go slightly off the beaten path.
Ella & the Hill Country Train The train from Kandy to Ella is consistently rated one of the great rail journeys in the world — tea plantations, misty mountains, waterfalls through the window. Ella itself is a small hill town with good hiking, excellent cafes, and the iconic Nine Arch Bridge. The hill country region, including Nuwara Eliya, is a world apart from the coast.
Best for: slow travellers, couples, and anyone who equates good scenery with good coffee.
Kandy Sri Lanka’s second city, set in the hills at a noticeably gentler pace. The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world, and the surrounding lake, botanical gardens, and nightly dance performances make it a complete destination in its own right. Best for: cultural travellers and a natural midpoint in any full itinerary.

Bhutan

Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, is a tiny Himalayan kingdom that feels like a secret whispered by the mountains. Tucked between India and China, it’s a place where happiness isn’t just a buzzword—it’s a way of life, thanks to their famous Gross National Happines philosophy. With prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, monasteries perched on cliffs, and a culture that’s as vibrant as it is serene, Bhutan is unlike anywhere else. I’ve been lucky enough to visit twice—once with my maternal grandparents and once with my paternal ones—and each trip left me with memories I’ll carry forever.

Getting to Bhutan is an adventure in itself. The easiest way is to fly into Paro International Airport, one of the most scenic (and slightly nerve-wracking) airports in the world, surrounded by towering peaks. Flights usually come from cities like Delhi, Kolkata, or Bangkok, operated by Drukair or Bhutan Airlines. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also enter overland from India via Phuentsholing, Jaigaon, or Gelephu, though the road trip adds a few extra hours of winding Himalayan views. Once you’re in, you’ll need a visa (arranged through a licensed Bhutanese tour operator) and a guide—tourism here is tightly regulated to preserve the country’s magic.

Bhutan’s specialties? Think pristine landscapes, a peaceful vibe like nowhere, a deep-rooted Buddhist heritage, and a commitment to sustainability that’s downright inspiring. From the national animal, the takin, to the colorful festivals called tshechus, there’s something enchanting around every corner. Since I’m writing this blog years after my visits, I won’t dive into food recommendations—memory’s a bit fuzzy on the specifics—but I’ll absolutely share some Bhutanese dishes you have to try: ema datshi (spicy chili and cheese), kewa datshi (potato and cheese), shamu datshi (mushroom and cheese), and nutty red rice. Trust me, your taste buds will thank you.

So, let’s dive in!

Trip One

My first trip to Bhutan was when I was pretty young, and since my maternal grandparents weren’t big on long treks, we kept it mellow. We stuck to key sites and leaned hard into hotel life—which, honestly, was a treat. We stayed at the luxurious Taj Tashi in Thimphu, where the blend of Bhutanese design and modern comfort made every moment feel special. In Paro, we checked into Zhiwa Ling (now rebranded as Six Senses Bhutan), a stunning property with jaw-dropping views. I got miserably sick in Paro—fever, sniffles, the works—so I spent most of my time there curled up in bed, gazing out at the misty mountains. Thimphu, though? That’s where the magic happened for me. I loved the energy of the capital, the way it buzzed quietly with life, and the cozy evenings we spent sipping tea by the hotel fireplace. It was a soft landing into Bhutan, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Trip Two

We followed this itenary

Day 1: Arrive in Paro, transfer to Thimphu, visit Buddha Dordenma.
Day 2: See Memorial Chorten, Changangkha Temple, Takin Preserve, Bhutan Postal Museum, Tashichho Dzong.
Day 3: Day trip to Punakha via Dochula Pass, see Punakha Dzong.
Day 4: Relax in Thimphu, enjoy pool and spa at Le Méridien.
Day 5: Transfer to Paro, visit Paro Rinpung Dzong, Kyichu Lhakhang.
Day 6: Visit Tigers Nest, stroll Paro streets.

Day 1 :Fast forward to my second trip, this time with my paternal grandparents, and I was ready to soak it all in. We landed at Paro’s postcard-perfect airport, where the plane swoops between the peaks of the himalayas. And if you’re lucky enough, you can even catch a glimpse of Everest. Our guide, Ugyen Cruise Dorji, greeted us with a warm smile and whisked us off to Thimphu on a scenic drive. Prayer flags danced in the wind, and the roads were so well-kept. I learnt that it is illegal to go to many mountains, so a lot of Bhutan is untouched and preserved, making it one of the most beautiful countries I have ever been to.

We checked into Le Méridien Thimphu, a sleek hotel with massive rooms, right in the city center—we even scored a suite upgrade. That first day, we visited the Buddha Dordenma, a giant golden statue overlooking the valley. It’s hard to describe the peace that hits you standing there, with the breeze carrying the faint sound of monks chanting. That evening, we strolled through Thimphu’s streets, popping into a local diner for dinner. The vibe was laid-back, the people were friendly, and the atmosphere were very nice. For dinner we ended up having an Italian meal in a small cozy restaurant.

Day 2 : We kicked off with a killer breakfast at the hotel—pancakes, fresh fruit and some local bhutanese delicacies. We hit the Memorial Chorten, a whitewashed stupa buzzing with locals, dressed in traditional attire, moving silently in a clockwise path around the white stupa, spinning golden prayer wheels with every step. Each spin was like a quiet wish, and I remember standing there, completely still, just observing in awe of the peace of the place. A chorten, I learned, is a type of Buddhist stupa—essentially a monument that symbolizes peace and harmony.

We then climbed up to Changangkha Temple. Perched on a hilltop, it offered sweeping views of Thimphu that made my heart skip. Next, the Takin Preserve introduced us to the takin—Bhutan’s national animal, which looks like a mashup of a goat and a cow. It’s weirdly adorable. On a family friend’s tip, we swung by the Bhutan Postal Museum, which sounds niche but was a total gem. Stamps tell stories here, and learning about GNH ( Gross National Happiness ) was a highlight—Bhutan’s all about balancing progress with well-being, and it shows.

The grand finale of the day was Tashichho Dzong, a fortress-monastery hybrid that’s pure architectural eye candy. A dzong is a traditional Bhutanese building that doubles as a religious and administrative hub, and this one was decked out with intricate woodwork and golden roofs. I could’ve stared at it for hours. For dinner, we headed to Taj Tashi for a Bhutanese feast—ema datshi, kewa datshi, shamu datshi, and red rice. The flavors were bold, spicy, and comforting all at once, and the hotel’s ambiance made it unforgettable.

Day 3 : This was long but very memorable: a day trip to Punakha. We stopped at Dochula Pass, where 108 chortens dot the hillside and the Himalayan panorama left me speechless. I also saw the himalayan peaks through a binocular which was very special. I sipped tea, snapped photos, and tried not to freeze in the crisp mountain air. Then came Punakha Dzong. Built at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, the dzong stood like a guardian of time. Its wooden bridge, the colours of its windows, and the massive central courtyard were almost too perfect. I walked around, in complete awe. The place wasn’t just beautiful—it was alive. You could hear chants, water flowing, the occasional laugh, and still feel a deep, serene silence underneath it all. This was easily one of the most beautiful and picturesque places I had ever seen.

Day 4 : This day was all about chilling. We splashed around in Le Méridien’s pool, booked spa treatments that melted every ounce of stress, and wandered the city center. I snagged some lemongrass perfumes (still my favorite scent) and handmade crafts as souvenirs. Dinner was at a burger joint whose name escapes me, but that veggie burger? Juicy, flavorful, texturally perfect—hands down the best I’ve ever had. I’m still chasing that high.

Day 5 : Next, we transferred to Paro, stopping for a bird’s-eye view of the airport that made me gasp all over again. We stayed at Naksel Boutique Hotel & Spa, a gorgeous spot with Himalayan vistas that felt like a hug from nature. It’s a bit off the usual path, but that just added to the charm. That day, we explored Paro Rinpung Dzong—another breathtaking fortress—and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest temples. The serenity was unreal.

Day 6 : Our last day was low-key. Tiger’s Nest (Paro Taktsang) loomed above us, but with my grandparents along, we skipped the steep hike and saw the monument from below. Instead, we strolled Paro’s streets, soaked in the Himalayan views from our hotel, and let the trip sink in. It was the perfect goodbye.

Bhutan’s a place that sneaks into your soul. Whether it was sipping tea at Dochula Pass, marveling at dzongs, or just breathing in that crisp mountain air, every moment felt like a gift. There is this peace about Bhutan, a kind of serenity, which I haven’t felt anywhere else. It’s a country that doesn’t dazzle with spectacle—it humbles you with silence, with balance, with intention. My two trips—one gentle, one immersive—showed me different sides of this kingdom, and I’d go back in a heartbeat. If you’re craving a mix of adventure, culture, and peace, Bhutan’s calling your name. Just don’t ask me for burger joint specifics—I’m still kicking myself for forgetting that name!